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Two Water Pumps, Two Sides: Getting the Right Pump for Your 1937–48 Ford Flathead V8   If you’re new to early Ford Flathead V8s, one look under the hood reveals something a little different from most later engines: there are two water pumps—one on each side of the engine. And no, they aren’t interchangeable. For 1937–48 Ford and Mercury passenger cars and 1937–47 Ford pickups equipped with the V8, C&G Ford Parts offers the two pumps you need: 78-8501-B — Right-Hand Water Pump (Passenger Side)78-8502-B — Left-Hand Water Pump (Driver Side) Knowing which is which matters, especially when you’re replacing only one side.   Why Does a Flathead Ford Have Two Water Pumps? The Flathead V8 cooling system reflects the engine’s distinctive architecture. Instead of using one centrally located water pump, Ford used a pump on each bank of the V8 to circulate coolant through the engine and radiator, keeping in mind each side of the engine has a separate cooling jacket. That makes both pumps important to the cooling system. A worn, leaking or noisy pump on either side deserves attention. On a restoration that has been sitting for years—or an engine with an unknown maintenance history—it’s also worth inspecting both pumps rather than assuming the other side is fine simply because only one is leaking.   Right Hand or Left Hand? Here's the Easy Way to Remember It Early Ford parts terminology identifies left and right from the driver's position looking forward, not from somebody standing in front of the car looking into the engine compartment. So: 78-8501-B — RIGHT HAND = Passenger Side 78-8502-B — LEFT HAND = Driver Side Standing in front of the radiator looking toward the engine can make this seem backwards. When in doubt, think of yourself sitting behind the steering wheel. Driver's side is left. Passenger side is right.   78-8501-B Right-Hand Water Pump C&G part number 78-8501-B is the right-hand, or passenger-side, V8 water pump. It fits 1937–48 Ford and Mercury passenger-car applications and 1937–47 Ford pickup applications as listed in our fitment data. This is a bearing-type pump and includes the mounting gasket. If you're looking under the hood from the driver's seat, this is the pump on your right.   78-8502-B Left-Hand Water Pump C&G part number 78-8502-B is its counterpart for the left-hand, or driver's side, of the engine. It covers the corresponding 1937–48 Ford and Mercury passenger-car and 1937–47 Ford pickup V8 applications. Like the right-hand pump, it is designed as the correct side-specific replacement for these early Ford cooling systems. Remember: 8501 = right/passenger side. 8502 = left/driver side. That little bit of Ford part-number knowledge can come in mighty handy the next time you're staring at an old Flathead.   Don't Ignore the Other Side If one water pump has reached the end of its service life, take a close look at the other one while you're there. Check for coolant leakage, shaft play, bearing noise and signs that the pump has been on the engine for a very long time. Replacing a questionable pump while the cooling system is already drained can be considerably easier than doing the job all over again a few months down the road. That doesn't mean both pumps automatically need replacement every time one fails. It means an old Ford deserves an inspection rather than a guess. The 78-8501-PR Left and Right-hand water pumps are a better deal economically at $189.90 for both sides as a set. While you are inspecting under the hood and the hoses are removed, make sure you check your thermostats for the old flathead.   The Right Parts for Your Early Ford These pumps cover a long and popular stretch of Flathead Ford history—from prewar cars and pickups through the immediate postwar years. Getting the correct pump means checking the year, application and which side of the engine you're working on before placing the order. At C&G Ford Parts, we've been helping people keep old Fords on the road since 1978. If you're unsure which pump fits your Ford, Mercury or pickup, give us a call. You'll talk to people who know these cars and actually drive classics themselves. Need the passenger-side pump? Choose 78-8501-B Right-Hand Water Pump. Need the driver's-side pump? Choose 78-8502-B Left-Hand Water Pump. Need both pumps? Choose the 78-8501-PR Right-Hand and Left-Hand Water Pumps as a set. And if, your Flathead needs both, well… Henry gave you two pumps for a reason. Keep it cool. Keep it Ford. And keep it on the road.

6-Volt Electric Fuel Pump for 1932-1955 Ford Cars, Mercury & Pickups If your classic Ford cranks longer than it used to, hesitates under acceleration, or struggles to start after sitting for a few weeks, the problem may not be the carburetor—it may be the fuel pump. A dependable fuel supply is essential to smooth starting, consistent performance, and enjoyable driving. Our 6-Volt Electric Fuel Pump (2.5-4.5 PSI) is designed for 1932-1955 Ford Passenger Cars, 1939-1955 Mercury models, and 1932-1955 Ford Pickups, providing reliable fuel delivery for vintage carbureted engines. Why Fuel Delivery Matters Every carbureted engine depends on a steady supply of fuel. The fuel pump transfers gasoline from the fuel tank through the fuel lines and filter before delivering it to the carburetor at the proper pressure. This pump provides 2.5 to 4.5 PSI, making it an excellent choice for many original-style carburetor applications that require low, consistent fuel pressure. When the pump, fuel lines, filter, and carburetor work together properly, your engine starts easier, idles smoother, and performs more consistently whether you're cruising to a local show or taking a weekend drive. Common Signs of a Weak Fuel Pump Original mechanical fuel pumps have served faithfully for decades, but age eventually catches up with every component. Internal diaphragms harden, valves wear, and modern ethanol-blended fuels can accelerate deterioration of older fuel system parts. Some of the most common warning signs include: Hard starting after the vehicle has been parked Extended cranking before the engine fires Hesitation during acceleration Intermittent stalling when hot Inconsistent engine performance Keep in mind that fuel delivery problems are often caused by more than one component. Contaminated fuel tanks, clogged filters, deteriorated rubber hoses, restricted fuel lines, or poor electrical connections can all contribute to similar symptoms. Inspecting the complete fuel system is always recommended when diagnosing fuel-related issues. Built for Classic Ford Applications Part Number: 11A-9350-E6 This electric fuel pump is engineered for 6-volt electrical systems and delivers the correct pressure range for many factory-style carbureted engines. It can serve as a dependable primary fuel pump or be used to help prime the fuel system after extended storage, reducing unnecessary cranking and helping your classic start more quickly. Applications include: 1932-1955 Ford Passenger Cars 1939-1955 Mercury 1932-1955 Ford Pickups Why Buy from C&G Ford Parts? Since 1978, C&G Ford Parts has specialized exclusively in classic Ford restoration parts. As a second-generation family-owned business, we're more than a parts supplier—we're enthusiasts. Every member of our team owns and drives a classic Ford or truck, so we understand the importance of quality, proper fitment, and dependable technical support. Whether you're performing a complete restoration or simply solving an annoying fuel delivery problem, we're here to help you choose the right parts the first time. Before placing your order, verify your vehicle's application and inspect the condition of your fuel tank, fuel lines, filters, and electrical connections. Replacing worn fuel system components together helps ensure dependable performance and many miles of enjoyable driving in your vintage Ford.

Turn Signal Switch Removal & Replacement Guide Classic Ford Mustang, Falcon, Fairlane, Comet & F-Series Trucks (1960s–1970s) If your turn signals are acting up—or just plain dead—it’s often the switch inside the column calling it quits. The good news? This is a very doable repair with basic tools and a little patience. Below is a step-by-step guide to replacing classic Ford turn signal switches, including popular part numbers like C3OZ-13341-B, C5OZ-13341-B, C5OZ-13341-HQ, C9TZ-13341-C, and C9TZ-13341-USA. Why Replace Your Turn Signal Switch? A worn or failing turn signal switch can cause: Intermittent or non-functioning signals Brake light issues Horn malfunctions (shared circuit in many models) Replacing it restores proper electrical function and keeps your classic Ford safe—and road legal. Tools & Prep Steering wheel puller (TOOL-3600) Small crescent wrench Screwdrivers Dielectric grease Phone (for reference photos—trust me on this one) First rule: Disconnect the battery ground cable. Always. Step-by-Step Removal 1. Remove the Turn Signal Lever Twist the lever out. If it’s stubborn, use a small crescent wrench on the flat spot found on most originals. 2. Remove Horn Button or Ring Push down and turn left to release.⚠️ Go slow—there’s a spring underneath that likes to make a break for freedom. Inspect horn ring retainer Remove horn brush if equipped 3. Pull the Steering Wheel Use your steering wheel puller (TOOL-3600) and set the wheel aside. 4. Document Wiring (Critical Step) Before disconnecting anything: Take clear photos of wire routing and colors Or write them down if you're going old-school Some 1965+ models use connectors that may require a release tool. 5. Disconnect Wiring Under Dash Unplug the turn signal switch harness from beneath the dash. 6. Remove the Turn Signal Switch Back at the column: Remove the (3) mounting screws ONLY Do NOT remove the two large nuts (unless you enjoy fishing dropped studs out of a column…) Carefully pull the switch upward while feeding the wires out of the column. Installation Process 7. Compare Old vs New Switch Before installing: Match wire colors and count Confirm lever compatibility 8. Install New Switch Feed wires down through the column Seat the switch properly Reinstall the (3) retaining screws 9. Reconnect Wiring Plug into under-dash harness Apply dielectric grease to connections for longevity 10. Reassemble Column Reinstall steering wheel Install horn brush (if applicable) Replace spring, horn button/ring Thread in turn signal lever (don’t over tighten) Final Check (Moment of Truth) Reconnect the battery. Now… No smoke? Good sign. No weird noises? Even better. Turn the key and test: Turn signals Brake lights Horn If everything works—you nailed it.If not… well… time to retrace those wiring steps. Pro Tips from the Shop Floor Always photograph wiring before disassembly—memory lies, photos don’t Replace worn horn components while you’re in there Use dielectric grease to prevent future corrosion issues Never force the switch or lever during install Need the Right Turn Signal Switch? At C&G Ford Parts, we’ve been helping restorers get it right since 1978. Every part we carry is built for proper fitment and factory-correct function—because guessing doesn’t belong in a restoration. 👉 Browse our selection of classic Ford turn signal switches and get your signals back in sync.

Why This Job Matters This isn’t just about lights—it’s about safety and reliability. A fresh harness eliminates voltage drops, intermittent faults, and those “works when it feels like it” gremlins. It’s one of those upgrades that doesn’t show at the car show, but you’ll feel it every time you drive.

1960–1965 Ford & Mercury Door Seal Installation Guide (C0DZ-6220530-PR) Application This guide applies to vehicles using door seal set C0DZ-6220530-PR, including: 1960–1965 Falcon / Comet – 2 Door Sedan 1960–1965 Falcon / Comet – 2 Door Wagon 1960–1965 Ranchero 1960–1965 Sedan Delivery These vehicles use perimeter door seal mounted directly to the door shell. Proper installation is critical for wind noise reduction, water control, and correct door closing tension. Original Shop Notes 3M-8001 Glue C0DZ-6220530-PR 60-65 Falcon/Comet 2DR Sedan 60-65 Falcon/Comet 2DR Wagon 60-65 Ranchero 60-65 Sedan Delivery Installation notes: Remove old door seals Clean inside door surface Clean door seals Test fit door seals, maybe tape seals to door Put glue on door, work in sections These notes capture the core sequence used in many restoration shops when replacing early-1960s Ford door seals. Door Seal Replacement Procedure 1. Remove the Existing Door Seals Start by removing the original seals from the door. On vehicles from this era, the rubber seal is typically glued directly to the door rather than clipped or retained with molded fasteners. Over decades the adhesive hardens and the rubber may tear during removal. Work slowly along the channel and peel the seal away from the metal surface. Remaining adhesive residue or fragments of the old rubber should also be removed during this stage so the new seal can sit flat against the door. 2. Clean the Door Mounting Surface “Clean door surface.” This step is critical before any adhesive is applied. The inner perimeter flange where the seals mounts must be free of: Old adhesive Rubber residue Dirt or oil A clean mounting surface allows the adhesive to bond properly and prevents the seal from lifting later. Pay particular attention to corners and tight radius where residue tends to remain. 3. Clean the New Door Seal “Clean door seals.” Even new reproduction seals can carry mold release residue from manufacturing or dust from storage and handling. Wiping the seal before installation ensures the adhesive bonds to the rubber surface properly. This step is simple but helps prevent long-term separation between the rubber and the door. 4. Test Fit the Door Seal Before applying adhesive: “Test fit door seals, maybe tape seals to door.” Dry fitting the seal verifies: Correct orientation of the molded corners Proper length around the perimeter Alignment with the door flange Many restorers temporarily secure the seal with masking tape during this step. Taping allows you to check how the seal sits around the entire perimeter before committing to adhesive. If the seal appears twisted or stretched, reposition it during the test fit rather than after glue has been applied. 5. Apply Adhesive in Sections “Put glue on door, work in sections.” Using 3M-8001 adhesive, apply glue to the door flange where the seal will sit. Rather than coating the entire perimeter at once, work in manageable sections. Installing in sections helps: Maintain correct seal alignment Prevent adhesive from setting before placement Allow the rubber to seat evenly along the channel Press the seals firmly into place as each section is installed, ensuring the molded lip follows the door contour. Continue this process around the door perimeter until the entire seal is secured. Why Section Installation Matters Early Ford door seals are molded to follow the door perimeter precisely. Installing the seal gradually allows the rubber to settle into the correct position while adhesive is still workable. Attempting to glue the entire perimeter at once often results in: Misalignment at corners Excess adhesive squeeze-out Seal tension that causes doors to sit high Working in stages helps maintain proper positioning and factory-style fitment. When Door Seal Replacement Is Necessary Door seals commonly requires replacement when you encounter: Wind noise while driving Water intrusion during rain Hardened or cracked rubber Missing or deteriorated seal sections These symptoms are typical on vehicles where the original rubber has aged for decades.   Fitment Reminder Door seal configuration can vary by body style and model year. Confirm vehicle body type and model year before ordering replacement seals. Explore our full selection of classic Ford door seals and restoration rubber components to support proper body sealing and factory-correct restoration.